During Thanksgiving, our family decided to do something different. Since our adult children are scattered about the Midwest we decided to meet in the middle. We rented a place outside of North Utica Illinois about a 90-minute drive from Chicago. Our real purpose was to be together for Thanksgiving but we were delighted to discover that we were a stone’s throw from one of the most distinguished state parks in the region. One with great natural beauty shared with a dark history.
Illinois Starved Rock State Park has been voted the #1 natural attraction in Illinois. The 2,600-acre park has eighteen distinct canyons. Each was carved out of the St. Peter Sandstone by glacial melting and the ever-persistent water action of the Illinois River. The Starved Rock Lodge and Visitor are the trailheads to the rest of the park and considered the starting point for guided and self-guided hiking of the various trails and canyons. Its thirteen miles of trails are well marked and many are equipped with sets of stairs to safely access the remote bluffs and steep canyons in the park. A Starved Rock trail map is a handy addition to your backpack
Native History of Starved Rock
Part of the history of Starved Rock State Park and its surrounding area is in the legacy of its Native American inhabitants. For over 10,000 years, Native American tribes called the area home. The fertile land of Plum Island was an ideal place to farm maize, beans, and other vegetables. The land was also excellent hunting ground with bison, turkey, deer, and other animals populating the area. Flocks of wild turkey and deer flourish in the park and can be abundantly seen. There is ample evidence of beaver activity on trees on trails along the river bank.
The French Explorers at Starved Rock
The French were the first Europeans to visit Illinois Country. Explorers Marquette and Jolliet traverse the area via the Illinois River in 1673. The Illinois River was the main trade route of the French traders until the region became part of the British Empire a century later.
Rene-Robert Cavelier and Sieur de la Salle arrived at Starved Rock in 1680. The French soon built Fort St Louis on the summit of Starved Rock which served as headquarters for the French-Indian trade and as a diplomatic center of the region. No evidence remains of the French fort on the summit today.
The Legend of Starved Rock
Starved Rock State Park derives its name from a Native American legend of the assassination of Chief Pontiac of the Odawa tribe and leader of the raid and siege of the British Fort Detroit in 1763. In 1769 Pontiac was in Illinois country and was slain by an Illiniwek while attending a tribal council the southern part of the state. According to the legend, during one of the battles that subsequently occurred to avenge his murder, a band of Illiniwek under attack by a group of Potawatomi, (allies of the Ottawa), sought refuge atop a 125-foot sandstone butte. The Odawa and the Potawatomi surrounded the bluff and lay siege until the hapless Illiniwek died of starvation – thus giving the name “Starved Rock”
As with many legends, there is no direct evidence that this event actually occurred. However several books were written in the early 1800s giving accounts to bones scattered on top of the rock. Some of these relics are said to have traveled to Quebec where they are resting to this day. Likewise, there is also a popular legend that Pontiac’s body was taken back to Michigan and buried near his childhood home on Apple Island which lies in the middle of Orchard Lake north of Detroit.
The Beginning of Starved Rock State Park
Starved Rock became of Illinois first state parks when it was purchased from private owners in 1911 for $146,000. From 1891 to 1940 a large frame hotel stood at the base of the south bluff at Starved Rock. There was an artesian fed swimming pool, a dance pavilion, and a concession area.
Travel by Rail and Ferryboat to Starved Rock
Visitors coming to the park from Chicago would take the train to Joliet where they would transfer to an interurban electric railway to the Illinois River. Once there they would take a ferry boat to cross the river to the park.
Waterfalls in Starved Rock State Park
Throughout Starved Rock State Park, the majority of the canyons have very tall waterfalls, but the most popular can be found in St, Louis, French, Wildcat, Tonti, LaSalle, Ottawa and Kaskaskia Canyons.
We found the remoteness of St. Louis Canyon, which draws few visitors, was worth venturing away from the visitor center. At the base of the canyon, hikers are treated to a wide vista with mini caverns and overlook to explore. The total hike out and back was just under an hour.
Waterfalls at Starved Rock tend to be seasonal and dependent upon local rain or snowmelt. The best times view the waterfalls are in the spring and after heavy rainfall. However, access can be hampered due to washouts of trails.
Canyons and Overlooks at Starved Rock
While waterfalls are something many people come to see at Starved Rock, the sandstone canyons and river overlooks are quite stunning to see no matter what the weather. If you happen to be hiking Starved Rock during a dry season, there are many beautiful views throughout the park. One word of caution when hiking at Starved Rock is to stay back from the steep ledges and banks, they are prevalent and the edges give way easily. Use care when taking selfies.
One of the most amazing sites in the Upper Thumb is to kayak Turnip Rock. Carved over time by the force of constant wave action the soft limestone has been shaped to its namesake and separated from the mainland over thousands of years. CNN called it one of the Most Amazing Rock Formations in America and Pure Michigan featured it on its 2016 magazine cover. International travelers coming into Detroit Metropolitan Airport see Turnip Rock as their first view of Michigan’s wonder scenes coming into customs. It’s a marvel to behold and it’s an easy trip if the conditions are right. Here are 5 Things to Know When You Kayak to Turnip Rock.