The Mystery of Michigan’s St. Joseph Trail
The St. Joseph Trail was an ancient major route that traversed the southern portion of Michigan. Originating near the mouth of the St. Joseph river, it continued eastward terminating near Ann Arbor and connecting with the other major trail systems along the Straights of Detroit.
The St. Joseph Indian Trail roughly paralleled the famous Great Sauk Trail which traversed Michigan in a route further south. The trail and the name morphed with the times, as the route was also called Old Joe Trail, and Route du Sieur de la Salle. After Michigan became a state the route was improved and denoted as Territorial Road, one of Michigan’s first public highways. The route opened the “second tier of southern counties” and helped to foster settlement in Southwestern Michigan. Today the ancient route is in bits and pieces of Michigan Avenue, U.S. 12, and great swaths of I-94.
Key Aspects of Michigan’s Indian Trails
The ancient trails had some key characteristics that the early European settlers remarked about. They were narrow rutted paths sometimes 12 to 18 inches wide as the Native Americans walked single file to hide their numbers. The paths typically crossed on high ground and ridgelines to avoid standing water of swamps and seasonal floodplains. When a trail crossed a river, it was common that stepping stones would be placed to denote a shallow area and assist in its crossing. Finally, the trails converged in the major native settlement areas of Saginaw, Niles, Detroit and Ann Arbor.
Some parts of the trails were denoted water trails. The St. Joseph terminated east of Ann Arbor and travelers had the option of continuing on the Huron River toward Detroit. Likewise, the SandRidge trail on the western Thumb has a crossing at Oak Point across Saginaw Bay via Charity Island to the mouth of the Au Sable. A prime fishing area.
The legend of the St. Joseph Trail and the French Explorer LaSalle
In August of 1679, La Salle finished the construction of the ship Le Griffon. This was the first European design ship to be constructed on the Great Lakes. While the exact measurement is unknown, the double mast ship was believed to be up to 40 feet long with a wide 15-foot beam. Carrying seven-cannons and a cargo capacity near 45-tons this ship would have been viewed as a monster as it was launched on the upper Niagara River in early August.
La Salle and his party’s first mission of Le Griffon was to trade in the Upper Great Lakes. The Griffon sailed up Lake Erie through the Straights of Detroit. On August 9th in Detroit, he met up with his lieutenant Henri De Tonti who joined him for the voyage up Lake Huron. On August 27th they arrived at Fort Michilimackinac to deliver 1,300 livres worth of trade goods at the southwestern trading post.
La Salle and De Tonti Separate
At the end of August La Salle and Tonti parted ways. Tonti was assigned to round up deserters who were encamped at the major trading post at Sault Ste Marie. LaSalle sailed to Green Bay, Wisconsin. Here the Le Griffon left for Niagara with a load of furs and LaSalle was going on down Lake Michigan to seek a water route to the Mississippi. He continued with his men in canoes down the western shore of the lake rounding the southern end to the mouth of the Miami River. A small stockade was built which they called Fort Miami. Tonti left Sault Ste. Marie in early October and rendezvous with La Salle at the after almost 38 days of canoe travel down Lake Michigan likely along the eastern shore.
As Spring approached in Southwestern Michigan, on March 1st La Salle left Tonti in charge of the new post and headed east overland on the St. Joseph trail in search of news of his ill-fated Griffon presumably near Detroit. Little did LaSalle know, but the Griffon had sunk near Green Bay with all hands. The wreck of the Griffon has never been found. LaSalle and five men took a month to walk across Michigan to Niagara. They were considered the first Europeans to traverse the interior of Michigan.
The Indian Trail Evolves
For the next 150 years, St. Joseph Trail continues as a single path through the dense forests and prairies of southern Michigan. In 1805 Michigan became a territory and for the next 30 years, the territorial government’s first priorities were to create a system of territorial roads to assist in settlement of the state. By 1831 a public act was passed:
“to lay out and establish a territorial road, commencing at or near the inn of Timothy S. Sheldon, on the Chicago road, in the township of Plymouth, and running thence through the village of Ann Arbor west to the mouth of St. Joseph’s river…the road would become a public a public highway.”Laws of the Territory of Michigan V. III
A few years later in 1834, the US government stepped in and declared Territorial Road to be a federal highway and set aside $20,000 for further improvements.
The Era of the Corduroy Road
When the Territorial road was first built from Plymouth to St. Joseph a portion of the road was ‘corduroy.’ which means wood logs placed closely together in a fashion resembling the ribs in corduroy fabric. This would be used to keep the roadbed intact during wet and winter weather. Even today construction crews may encounter the embedded logs of a portion of a corduroy road.
Traveling on the St. Joseph’s Trail Today
If you travel across Michigan on I-94 your hitting much of the same path as the original St. Joseph Trail and Territorial Road. However, as you the old trail also shares the route with US 12 and Michigan Avenue.
- Peek through time: St. Joseph Trail played an important part in the settlement of Jackson- Mlive https://www.mlive.com/living/jackson/index.ssf/2010/10/peek_through_time_st_joseph_tr.html
- Transportation in Michigan History, Indians Started Road from Footpath to Freeways By Philip P. Mason 1987
- Indians of Washtenaw County, Michigan, by W. B. Hinsdale, 1927
- E. B. Osler, “TONTY, HENRI,” in Dictionary of Canadian Biography, vol. 2, University of Toronto/Université Laval, 2003–, accessed January 30, 2019, http://www.biographi.ca/en/bio/tonty_henri_2E.html.
- The Indian Trails We Travel Everyday
- Hull’s Trace – The Michigan Shore Indian Trail
- The Site of the Mysterious Fort Gratiot
- The Saginaw Trail